{"id":1164,"date":"2018-04-10T15:18:41","date_gmt":"2018-04-10T13:18:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/theexotic.ch\/?p=1164"},"modified":"2018-04-13T16:44:12","modified_gmt":"2018-04-13T14:44:12","slug":"chonja-lee-presenting-at-the-courtauld-april-2018","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/?p=1164","title":{"rendered":"Chonja Lee presenting at the Courtauld, April 5, 2018."},"content":{"rendered":"
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Courtauld Institute of Art and King’s College, London: Impression\/Opression: I<\/em>ndiennes challenging the Paradigm of Textily<\/i>, in: Annual Conference of the Association for Art History<\/a>, Session ‘Textility’, 5\u20137 April 2018.<\/div>\n
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Compared to other technologies like weaving, knitting, embroidering or dying, the <\/span>indiennes<\/i><\/span>\u2019 material and making disappears behind a surface of designs. It is precisely the impression of varied colourful images that is responsible for the 18th-century appreciation of the <\/span>indienne<\/i><\/span>s. The European manufactories perfected the foreign technology to a degree that industrialised sleekness erased marks of a maker\u2019s hand, like unprecise outlines of motives. The <\/span>indiennes<\/i><\/span>\u2019 kinship with printed matter became even stronger with copperplate printed book illustrations on its fabric. What kind of theoretical paradigm would work to explore these objects?<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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She argues that the <\/span>indiennes <\/i><\/span>stand in opposition to the paradigm of textility and I propose mimesis as an alternative concept of reference. More precisely, I will use the notion of intermediality in order to understand how <\/span>indiennes <\/i><\/span>reveal mimetic properties when imitating <\/span>ikat<\/i><\/span>, woven textiles or hand-painted silks through its patterns. Furthermore, I relate them not only to other textiles, but also to other media such as engraving. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

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Finally, the <\/span>indiennes <\/i><\/span>don\u2019t just challenge the textility, but, on a meta-level, their historical use also questions textile-based concepts about the global textile trade like interwovenness. Once again, it seems adequate to replace this term with the notion of oppression, considering the <\/span>indiennes<\/i><\/span>\u2019 role as a major commodity within the transatlantic slave trade. Oppression through <\/span>indiennes <\/i><\/span>does not only concern political agency but also an intrinsic aesthetic property: The printed cottons oppress space, things and bodies when dressing walls, furniture and people in an immersive all over. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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Courtauld Institute of Art and King’s College, London: Impression\/Opression: Indiennes challenging the Paradigm of Textily, in: Annual Conference of the Association for Art…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1169,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1164","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1164","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1164"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1164\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1182,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1164\/revisions\/1182"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1169"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1164"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1164"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/theexotic.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1164"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}